Monday, May 25, 2009
My buddy Timmy dropping in on an overhead bomb somewhere in North OC during a sneaker spring time south swell. Timmy's surfing roots trace back deep into his native Hawaiian culture. His cousin is one of the pioneers of our sport: Reno Abellira.
Fun seeing him out recently ripping on his Greg Griffin modfish trading combo swell bowls. The definition of Aloha. Shaka Brah!
Monday, May 18, 2009
Friday, May 8, 2009
Wow, 6+ hour session yesterday and man I'm beat. Caught so many waves, some were pushing into the HH+ range. Lots of fun cutties and hacks and one in and out barrel. Pic above is of me bottom turning on a fun one. Great waves, great board, great weather... Stoked!