Monday, May 25, 2009

My buddy Timmy dropping in on an overhead bomb somewhere in North OC during a sneaker spring time south swell. Timmy's surfing roots trace back deep into his native Hawaiian culture. His cousin is one of the pioneers of our sport: Reno Abellira.

Fun seeing him out recently ripping on his Greg Griffin modfish trading combo swell bowls. The definition of Aloha. Shaka Brah!


Monday, May 18, 2009

Cold Water

I did some time in Ann Arbor during my Postdoc at the University of Michigan. It was soooo cold. These guys define the word "hardcore"

Apparently it gets good over there too:


Friday, May 8, 2009

Point Break Fun Part II

Wow, 6+ hour session yesterday and man I'm beat. Caught so many waves, some were pushing into the HH+ range. Lots of fun cutties and hacks and one in and out barrel. Pic above is of me bottom turning on a fun one. Great waves, great board, great weather... Stoked!